Gillian Anderson's portrayal of the late former Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher reminds us what a force the Iron Lady was. Not just in will and policy but in how she chose to wear her hair. Her immovable, helmet hairstyle nicknamed the 'Thatch' was no accident but a carefully constructed weapon to enforce her steely image, which is not uncommon for women in power, especially when they are outnumbered by powerful men.
Throughout history hair has been used to make a statement. Take a look at a 1980's Margaret Thatcher in The Crown and if it weren't for her stiff, backcombed hairstyle, she would look demure in her conservative blue, pussybow blouses and suits.
Hair has a power like no other accessory, especially if the hairstyle remains unchanged throughout time, for it then becomes one's 'signature' transcending fashion and seasons altogether. Arguably US Vogue Editor in Chief, Anna Wintour, wouldn't have earned her 'Nuclear Wintour' reputation without her razor sharp jaw length bob.
Indeed, if Margaret Thatcher had a ubiquitous shoulder length hairstyle it's unlikely she would have lived up to her Iron Lady image in quite the same way.
A powerful hairstyle needs two elements to impose the look of fear: height and rigidity. Adding disproportionate volume at the crown is not dissimilar to wearing extremely high heels or shoulder pads as it lends a sense of gravitas to your overall look.
The stiff, immovable nature of Thatcher's hair shows that she's not one who'll bend easily. In fact, hair shaped like a helmet sends the message of impenetrability before you've even said a word.
Take a look at those with formidable reputations and they often wear their hair in a similar fashion. Steely British journalist and fashion critic, Suzie Menkes OBE is known for an absurdly high quiff that sets her apart from the rest of the fashion set.
While Princess Anne's extremely formal up-do has remained a constant for decades, proving her loyalty to duty over fashion. Indeed any hairstyle that looks stiff in appearance will give the impression that you are one hard cookie because it is fluidity that creates softness.
Unlike the former Prime Minister who chose a Marmite approach to both her leadership and her hairstyle, the Queen contrasts her set and pin-curled style with cheery coloured co-ords and a pop of bright lipstick, striking the careful balance between formality and approachability.
There have been subtler nods to Thatcher's hair. When the Spice Girls formed a girl band in 1994 following the worst recession since the second world war, Ginger Spice became the overriding voice of 'Girl Power' and on occasion did an anarchic take on Thatcher's hive (the pop star famously credited the Conservative Prime Minister with being one of the early adopters of girl power).
Margaret Thatcher's infamous hairstyle is not designed to be liked and therefore it's rarely taken as inspiration. However, leading hairdressers predict a return to definitive hairstyles in 2021. Andreas Wild from Larry King's hair salon in London says, 'when I was hairdressing in the 1980's women were much braver with their hair. Covid has forced us to give into longer hairstyles and embrace our roots but, from the conversations I'm having with my clients, many of them are ready to experiment again. I can see a return to setting hair in rollers next year - it's already happening in the fashion and music industry.'
Will we all start booking in for a weekly set and pin curl once hairdressers reopen on Dec 2nd? I doubt it, but stranger things have happened. A global pandemic for a start.
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